For Sabato de Sarno’s second womenswear collection at Gucci, he continued his sleek reinvention of the house after the eccentric maximalism of the Alessandro Michele years.
Movements
Making a coat is an act of craftsmanship, symbolic of a culture of exceptional technique. It begins with the construction, proceeding with the lining and the interior, moving between how the fabric falls, how it moves when it is worn, how its color changes if the wool is mixed with more modern fibers. Every act represents a meticulous journey in which each gesture can change the final result. The Fall Winter 2024 collection is an obsessive repetition of that journey, a staging of small subversive acts with regards to the rules of ready-to-wear.
Outerwear
The main coat, in fabric and with a masculine silhouette, has a covered placket, and hidden buttoning on the back, which transforms it into an embrace. The same can be found on bombers, peacoats, and leather jackets.
Details
Lace, cut and reconstructed, is embellished with embroideries, other laces, or velvets. Shifts are a combination of overlapping layers, held together by laces. Jacquard prints depict a geometric heron, recognizable only up close. Knitwear is enriched by transparent or slightly off-tone sequins or with a crystal fringe that recreates a ribbed motif. Twin sets aren’t twin sets, but distinctive pieces. The colors — the ugly ones, the ones of the heart, and the wrong ones, together.
Handbags
A new top handle bag with a flat and perforated logo that reveals what lies beneath, crafted in nappa with a naturally silky feel and paired with a layer that renders it light and puffy, called GG Milano. And then, a half-moon silhouette inspired by the equestrian motifs found in the Gucci Archive, infused with a contemporary spirit, is also decorated with a new logo. A clutch embellished and held together with a gold-toned metal bar that replicates the iconic bamboo. Finally, a Bamboo bucket bag with a broad and embracing silhouette.
Shoes
Horse-riding boots, the symbol par excellence of the connection between Gucci and the world of equestrianism, whose classic silhouette features an elongated metal Horsebit. Also in a unique over-the-knee version. The Horsebit loafers, which evolve in a platform sandal encapsulated by refined craftsmanship.
Small accessories
An archival necklace in galvanized gold and with a studded motif is woven with a ribbon in the shade of the garment closest to the neck. Cat-eye acetate sunglasses follow the same palette.
